Cugnoli Diary the first days.

We left home at 3.30 p.m. and made our way to JFK where the check in was quick and easy. Flight boarding was also smooth and the flight after quite a long taxi took off about 45 minutes late but made us some time en route and landed in LHR at 7.15 a.m.

We had quite a tight transfer with security lines long at that time of the day but the speedy formalities with optical readers moved things alongside and we made the flight to Rome reasonably comfortably. This was an easy flight and contrary to last time, Rome also had optical readers for passport control and so we were soon through formalities and our bags were delivered double quick. Then were off to the Hertz counter where, despite our being early and my having messed up the booking with my new Hertz Gold membership, they were very helpful, gave us an upgrade to a larger car and got us on our way early.

We were soon on the autostrada around Rome and on to the road to L’Aquila and Pescara. We stopped for coffee and a snack on the road and bought some other things for Cugnoli. Then it was off again and we reached La Fattoria di Maria Donata at around 4 p.m.

We were soon escorted to the room L’Ulivo where we are to live for the next month. As it was cold, a fire had already been lit for us. We unpacked a bit and then went to help Stefania who was repairing a meal for 44 people that evening. We helped with a few tasks such as preparing flowers for the tables, cutting up fruit and stirring some dishes.

We had dinner at around 7.30 p.m. in the small room behind the kitchen where there was also a fire to warm us.

After doing some cleaning up, we were off to bed,

Next day, after breakfast, we took off for Eremo di Santo Bartolomeo an old hermitage in a ravine in the Maiella Park. Stefania had a party for 12 young children and 20 of their parents and relatives during the day. There was not much we could do to help.

After driving for about 45 minutes we arrived at a place called Machie di Coco where we parked and started a walk down a path, steep at times towards the hermitage and ruined monastery which would be at the bottom of the ravine. My knees just don’t like going downhill there days so I did not complete the descent, The path was very stony and in paces quite steep with very high pitch steps. I suppose I made it about halfway down, MAC made it a bit further but there was still quite a way to go, despite the sign saying 0.1 km which was not so far. Still the scenery was lovely and the spring had brought out the flowers and shoots giving everything a very fresh tinge.

We retraced our steps back up the path to the top by which time it was lunch time and we went to the small restaurant at the head of the trail which was named after the area which, when translated literally means “Cocoa Stains”!! We had a very nice lunch of cold cuts, cheeses and a ravioli dish which when translated meant ‘waistcoats’. It was very nice and washed down with a local version of 7-Up which lacked the sugar and other ingredients of the original version. Then it was back to base with a stop at Carrefour in Rocamorice to pick up some groceries such as paper towels, water and other basics. 

The children’s party from the morning was still going when we returned, so we made ourselves scarce and had a rest before seeing what the evening would bring.

A German couple arrived to stay here for  a week and we helped with some translations as they did not speak Italian and Stefania does not speak German. Dinner of pasta and lamb was at 8 p.m. and then after helping to clear up, we retired to bed. Bruno told us during dinner that while the children were here a large but harmless snake had appeared where the animals are kept, much to the horror of the children.

The sunset was rather beautiful if a bit threatening with many clouds and a ‘Wagnerian’ look to the sky. Were the Valkeryies on their way? Not in Italy, the land of Verdi and Puccini, surely.

Sunday May 12th.

We got up at about 8 a.m. but the hills were completely covered in mist and the sky threatened rain as had been forecast. This was sad as Stefania had a major Communion Party to deal with for 5- people, one of who was allergic to nickel!! So she could not have anything which had touched nickel to eat!! So are the vagaries of giving parties for people! 

We had a small breakfast and then helped Stefania, briefly with the preparation of some vegetables for the afternoon’s party. Then we were dismissed as she was very busy and waiting for her staff to arrive.

We decided to go out for the day and after some indecision, we made for the small village of Cucolo which, at the beginning of May is the scene of a large festival involving snakes which they place on a religious statue and parade through the streets. Obviously by now this was over and the streets of Cucolo were quiet. After walking around a bit, we thought we had taken in most of the village. So we decided to use the public toilet before we left. Unfortunately, MAC managed to close the door on her toilet and was not able to open it. She sent me off to the police station, closed of course, it was both Sunday and Mother’s Day!! So, then to the Caribinieri, on Sundays they are only there from 11 a.m. until 1 p.m. and it was, by now 2 p.m. Some slight panic started to set in. Then, by lucky chance, I saw a man coming out of his house to shake out the table-cloth from lunch. I approached him and in my best (!!) Italian I apologized and told him of the plight of my wife. “Mi dispiace,  Mia moglie. e chiusa nel bagno”. This is a phrase I will never forget!! He went back into the house and brought out another gentleman who beckoned me to accompany him asking me if it was the right hand toilet!! Presumably, this is well known occurrence in Cucolo. He arrived at the door and told MAC to get out of the way and then aimed a swift, hard kick at the door which flew open, much to the relief of all!! Thanking him profusely we then carried on our way to see a huge castle which goes by the inappropriate name of Piccolomini!! About as small as one can get in Italian!! This is in a town called Celano probably about 70 Kim’s from Cugnoli. We had some trouble finding a parking space but when we had parked we walked up to this huge edifice. There was an entry fee of euro 4 each and then we could walk around the grounds, through the interior where there is a museum and up onto the battlements where there was a great view over the adjacent valley.

We left the Castle construction of which dated from the 1200’s although it was not completed until the 1500’s and was inhabited by a number of famous families during this time. Just below the castle entrance was a Gelateria where we enjoyed a very tasty gelato. Then it was back to the car for the trip back to Cugnoli.

When we arrived back the Communion Party was still going and we found out trends were Russians who were somehow associated with Stefania’s daughter Emanuelle. They were heavily into the vodka by this time and the party seemed to be destined to go on most of the night. We had a very nice dinner with lamb and antipasto and then MAC and Stefania engaged in a political discussion for some time after dinner.

The partygoers did not disturb us so we were soon into bed although we did discover a small leak from the radiator in the living room which we put a cup underneath  to prevent flooding.